Exploring North East India :- Inside "MAWSMAI CAVES" near Cherrapunji(Sohra) in Meghalaya.Have to squeeze in through the narrow gap behind me.Walking through these Stalactite and Stalagmite caves will test your physical fitness without the necessity of modern medical machines.
What is life without travel if a person has the time and a little money for the same ?
You don't have to be a billionaire or millionaire to travel in 21st century India with numerous travel tour companies offering budget group and customized private tours in India as well as to foreign Country's. As a nomadic "Middle-Class Traveler" have always written my travel blogs with expenditures involved along the journey to prove the fact that travel is within the means of the average working class Indian adventurer.Some people are afraid to fly let alone travel while many suffer from travel sickness.You have to have a passion and aptitude for travel besides a reasonable bank balance.Having traveled through 66 Country's across the Globe and almost entire India ,thanks partly due to my profession as as sea-sailing "Marine Engineer" decided it was time to fill in the missing places not traveled in India.Booked my return flight ticket to Guwahati well in advance on Monday(29/1/2018) with the total plane return air tickets cost amounting to Rs 8,451only.
Start of discover "North East India Travel Adventure".
Guwahati is the gateway to travelling across any of the 7 sister states of India's North-East region.I was unaware that "I.L.P(Inner Line Permits)" is required for Indian tourists travelling to the States of Nagaland,Arunachal Pradesh and Mizoram having always been under the impression that it was meant for Non-Indian tourists.Hence on landing in Guwahati on Thursday(15/3/2018) i would have to plan my travel according to convenience of transport and immediate availability of the "I.L.P" as my return flight back to Mumbai would be on Tuesday(27/3/2018).Only thirteen days to explore parts of the plains and rugged mountainous region of India's North Eastern region.
The Nomadic backpacker traveler at Kolkatta Airport.
Wednesday (14/3/2018) Departure Mumbai :- Boarded the local bus from Prabhadevi and alighted at Dadar. Walked the short distance to Dadar station and boarded the local train to Andheri station.
Aircraft delay picnic at Kolkata airport.
On arrival at the station walked over to the East side of the station and arrived at Nos 307 bus stop. Boarded a shared autorickshaw to Sahar Terminus 2 Arrivals terminus. From " Arrivals Terminus " walked up a ramp to the first floor of the building and boarded the lift to floor "P 10 " which leads to " Departure Terminal ".Walked out of the lift and crossed the road and entered " Gate No 6" of T2 Departure Terminal. The entire journey from my home in Prabhadevi to the airport cost me a total of Rs 40 which otherwise by taxi would have cost Rs 300 or more.Did i discover the cheapest backpacker travel route to Chhatrapati Shivaji airport within Mumbai city ? At 1700 hrs got my luggage checked at entry gate and later collected my "Boarding Tickets " from the Jet Airways counter.
Relishing famed Kolkata sweets at Kolkata airport.
While awaiting boarding at Gate 49A I suddenly noticed a familiar Sikh Gentleman hurrying to the boarding gate for the flight to Rajkot and realized he was none other than classmate Mr Narendra Kochhar.Called out to him and we just greeted each other as his flight was about to take off .Our " Flight No 0621" departure was late by a hour and at 2135 hrs we took off for Kolkata. At 2345 hrs we landed at Kolkata and I checked into the airport rest lounge awaiting my connecting flight to Guwahati.
Dense Early morning Fog delays the flights in Kolkata .My flight got delayed by 4 hours.A picnic in the airport !
Thursday (15/3/2018) :- Although the Kolkata airport arrivals rest lounge was well air-conditioned it was infested with mosquitoes and hence made my way to the first floor main domestic departure lounge.
At last in Guwahati, :- "Gateway to the Northeast of India.
Excellent and spacious with the air-conditioning giving me a restless morning in the lounge awaiting my 0640 hrs connecting flight to Guwahati. A chocoholic cannot resist the temptation of sweets and had a taste of Kolkatta's" Malai Cham Cham" from the "Gangaram's" stall in the lounge. Morning visibility at Kolkata airport was less than 100 meters due to a dense fog .Worse news was to follow with our plane being diverted from landing at Kolkata and hence we were left waiting at the airport along with other passengers. All passengers awaiting their flights were given breakfast and a cold drink / Bottle of water. A "Foodie" by habit relished my breakfast of Masala Dossa.
Paltan Bazar: Hub of travel transport to North East India.
This was a tourist travel experience of a different kind that I was witnessing for the first time in my life.The travel journey was beginning to get more mysterious than the destination itself. .One for my bucket list to " Braggers Rights Club Inc".Brought back decades old Sea sailing memories of working round the clock in the ships engine room during emergency engine repairs. I had not slept for over 24 hrs since leaving home and boarding the flight. Now you know the secret of my " Samsonic Tenacity and stamina " which has its origins in a 23 years career at Sea.
Al Farhad :- My "Bonny" hotel of the North East Travel.
Akin to soldiers we sailors don't die but just fade into the sunset. Finally as the weather got normal to our horror realized that our plane was now the only missing link among a series of local planes beginning their normal passenger service from Kolkata airport.
Paltan Bazar in Guwahati :- Busy upto midnight.
Felt absolutely helpless with the Jet Airways staff shunting us to different boarding points. Finally at 1015 hrs we boarded the plane from boarding gate N0 24 hoping that this was the end of the waiting game misery. At 1045 hrs we were airborne and a excellent journey with the " Middle - Person " missing in our row of 3 passengers making it a " Business class " seat. At 1215 hrs touched down at Guwahati airport.My vagabond unplanned travel began immediately on landing at the airport and first hired a shared taxi for Shillong costing aexorbitant Rs 500 but the driver kept me waiting for passengers and with the Kampala bus fiasco still fresh in memory didn't want to be a "Guinea pig" for the second time in my own country.Hence decided to board the Assam Governbment A/ C bus parked nearby to Guwahati.
Cycle Rickshaw transport in Guwahati.
The Sport of "Horse Racing" taught me the fact of life that indecision is worse than a failed decision ! I had only planned my trek to Nongriat village and hence the first decision to travel to Shillong which i aborted at the last minute due to the taxi driver's "Wait for passengers" modus operandi scheme although being charged a exorbitant fare. The bus ticket was Rs 90 and got the feel of Guwahati along the journey to Paltan Bazar. Alighted the bus before reaching Paltan Bazar at Kacheri Ghat wanting to visit the World's smallest islet. Asking directions acording to my travel research homework walked up-to the High Court area but was far away from the Ferry terminal. Decided to visit the island the next day and hopped into a local bus that dropped me at Paltan Bazaar.
Fish and Meat market in Guwahati.
Entered a ancient looking Lodge and got a self contained room for Rs 650 at "Hotel Al - Farhad" situated next to Paltan Mosque in the heart of Paltan Bazaar. " I was born a Catholic but I am a Hindu in India and a Muslim in Egypt " is my cosmopolitan style of living borrowed from the quote of Emperor Napoleon. Bonaparte. A nice cozy small room with a T. V. Later explored the vicinity of Paltan Bazaar enquiring about directions to the Assam Tourist building.On the way came across a photo studio and got a passport size photo taken for the " I. L. P(Inner Line Permit)" formalities costing Rs 50 for 30 photos Finally found the building and was directed to the third floor housing the Arunachal Pradesh office. Submitted my " Aadhar Card " as identity proof and on payment of Rs 460 got my ILP sanction for a month's stay in Arunachal Pradesh.No wonder non-Indian origin foreigners are baffled and confused of India's vast diversity in Religion, languages and cultures.As a Indian i had to get a special permission to visit a State in my own Country ?
Paltan Bazar railway stn..Gateway to North East India.
Having restrictions for "Permanent Settlement" in a State as in Jammu and Kashmir is a different issue but "Tourist" restrictions is bizarre.To me personally this seems to be a "Money Making Scheme" by the respective State Governments as the permit fees are quite exorbitant in comparison to the average Indian cost of living.Next visited "Network Travels" in Paltan Bazar, the largest travel company in the vicinity and inquired about the various destinations by bus. No wonder Guwahati is nicknamed the "Gateway to the North East". Walked back to main Paltan Bazaar and dinner at 1700 hrs was local Assamese fish Thali costing Rs 120 at "Swagat Hotel" which was absolutely delicious. Went back to my Lodge and after over 24 hrs of staying awake akin to a mid-sea ship breakdown finally got a decent 4 hours nights sleep.
View of UmananadaTemple island(Peacock Island) on Brahmaputra river . Smallest inhabited river island in the World.It is a Shiva temple built by the Ahom King Gadadar.Singha (1681 - 1696)
Friday (16/3/2018) : - After normal toilet routines walked out of the lodge straight onto Paltan Bazar booming with market street life at 0600 hrs. The Sun first ray's of the Indian sub continent appear in the North East of India and hence daylight is earlier compared to my home city of Mumbai.
These SADHU'S are walking across India.
Steps leading to the Kamakhya Temple.
After ages had early morning tea from the roadside tea-seller costing Rs 10/cup.Brought back memories of the chawl living lifestyle of Byculla in Bombay of the 1970's .Later boarded a rickshaw to Kacheri Ghat to board the ferry to " Umananda Temple ( Peacock Island) ".
At the Kamakhya Temple complex.
On reaching Kacheri Ghat discovered that the ferry service begins from 0900 hrs and hence decided to visit Kamakhya temple. The rickshaw dropped me at the bus stand charging me a total of Rs 100,definitely a inflates bill.. Breakfast was omelette / bread at the dhaba near the bus stand. Later Paying Rs 20 caught a shared taxi to Kamakhya temple.
On the Ferry boat to Umananda Island.
Stairways to UmanandaTemple from the Ferry boat steps.
Came across a overturned Lorry that created a traffic jam. Kamakhya Temple situated on the Nilachal hill is a Hindu temple dedicated to the Mother Godess Kamakhya and one of the oldest of the 51 Shakti Pithas.
Devotees entering Kamakhya temple complex.
On reaching the base of the temple hill entrance gate boarded another shared taxi for the drive to the peak of the hill. The street leading to the main temple complex was lined with flower and temple offering's stalls.It is a important temple of pilgrimage for Hindu's especially Tantric worshippers.Observed two barefoot Sadhu's who seemed different from the general crowd of devotees and after a external tour of the temple boarded a shared taxi costing Rs 20 back to the base of the hill. Boarded a bus to Kacheri Ghat with the ticket being Rs 10 .Alighted at the High Court stop and walked over to the Uzanbazar Ferry terminal for visiting Umananda temple .
On the World's smallest river Island:- Umananda Island.
There were no tourist passengers early in the morning and after waiting alone for some time joined a family in hiring a boat for Rs 500 with my contribution being Rs 100.It was a short boat ride to the smallest inhabited river island in the World .
"GOBINDA",the lone Golden Langur on Umananda island.
On reaching the island the family went to visit the temple while I surveyed the trees hoping to spot the elusive Golden Langurs unique to this tiny island akin to the Apes of the Rock of Gibraltar.I scrutinized the surrounding trees with my binoculars but besides kites and crows couldn't spot any mammal on the trees or ground. I was about to make my way back to the island jetty when I spotted a young boy along with a man pointing at a tree in my direction.
"POLICE BAZAR" in Shillong.
The young boy then put some bananas on the ground and looking up the tree spotted a beautiful lone Golden Langur sitting on a branch on the tree next to me. What was more bizarre was the fact that this Golden Langur was not tempted by the food unlike common Langur's or Macaques.It just slept on the branch while i photographed it. Luck was in my favour in this rare wildlife spotting. Made my way back to the jetty and after the family arrived from the temple visit we sailed back to the main land. On the mainland bizarrely came across the two Sadhu's whom i first saw at Kamakhya temple and had a brief conversation with them later also photographing them.Boarded a local bus back to Paltan Bazaar and had some rest in my room.
Police Bazar:- Heart of Shillong.
Mosquitoes seem to be all over Guwahati and I had to keep my room fan continuously running to ward of Mosquitoes. The T. V programme's on my room T. V broadcast local regional North Eastern programme's mostly Assamese.The English language was totally absent from the T.V channels in my room.Something is better than nothing. On visiting the terrace of the lodge was amazed to see one of the most modern stadiums having AstroTurf and synthetic athletic tracks akin to a Olympics Stadium.
Shillong has one of the Worst "Traffic Jams" in India.
This is the "Sports Authority of India" stadium whose one side boundary wall was the decrepit " Al Farhad " Lodge. The owner family of "Al Farhad Lodge" at one time owned massive tracts of land on which they built the Paltan Bazar Masjid which is a landmark in Paltan Bazar and later the hotel "Al Farhad" which is attatched to the masjid.
At "SHILLONG CATHEDRAL".
A ultra modern stadium in the heart of Old World Guwahati city. When will India have it's first Olympic track and field gold medalist ? Lunch was at my usual restaurant "Swagat hotel" situated on the main street opposite Paltan Masjid. After lunch checked out of the lodge at 1200 hrs and just walked onto the main road to the opposite side of the lodge and boarded a shared Maruti swift taxi to Shillong .We were four passengers and the charges were Rs 300/Person.A very pleasant journey on excellent roads on a Misty day. We encountered a little rain on the Assam /Meghalaya border and further up after crossing the dam a traffic jam due to highway road repairs.
Visit rooftop "CLOUD 9" nightclub if in Shillong.
Meghalaya in Sanskrit language means " The abode of clouds" and the name aptly describes this evergreen rainforest State of India which is also the wettest region of India.. Finally reached Shillong at 1430 hrs. The driver dropped me at a odd location in the traffic jammed city from where I boarded a shared taxi (Rs 10/Person) that finally dropped me at Shillong's famed destination, Police Bazaar.
Street vendors at Police Bazar in Shillong.
Next hurdle was finding accommodation suitable for my "Middle Class Budget ".Got a accommodation scare when the first few lodges that I checked were within my budget but house full. Inquiring directions was directed to the street adjacent to Police Bazaar which was Jail road.
A vegetable cum fish/meat /market in Shillong.
Heaved a sigh of relief on being told at "Hotel Greenland" that there were room vacancies and for Rs 700 was accommodated in Room N0 114.The tiny room with attached bath brought back memories of staying in the famous Chungking Mansion in Hongkong. Apologize for being a International city name dropper as facts are facts ! Later strolled around Police Bazar crowded with tourists and locals. Guwahati weather was pleasant and now in Shillong the weather was typical continental hill station. Cold yet not chill.
Street Pork Barbeque :- Only in Shillong.
The Meghalaya Tourism office is situated on the ground floor of " Greenland Hotel" and hence booked a group Tour to "Cherrapunji(Sohra)" costing Rs 350/person. Later boarded a local bus(Rs 10 ticket) to Shillong Cathedral.I thought Mumbai traffic jam's was a nightmare but Shillong seemed to be worse with the narrow hill station city's road's incapable of handling the vehicles and a cycle could be the best method of navigating through peak Shillong traffic. .The sight and location of Shillong Cathedral constructed on a elevated emerald coloured hill was amazing.Shillong Cathedral is also called the"Cathedral of Mary help of Christians" and is situated in Laitumkhrah locality of Shillong.The Cathedral has been built over the same site on which the first wooden church called the "Church of Divine Saviour" built in 1913 by German Salvation father's was destroyed by the"Good Friday Fire" on 10 th April 1936.
Police Bazar in Shillong at night .
Shillong cathedral is the principle place of worship for over 3,00,000 Catholic Christians of the Shillong Archdiocese. Within the Cathedral complex is the campus of the "Divine Saviour Higher Secondary School" having a excellent basketball court.From the Cathedral walked along the road and came across a local fish and vegetables market. Excellent and clean. Later boarded a shared taxi back to Police Bazaar. Shillong is famed for its music especially Bob Dylan cover songs and hence inquired about the Nightclubs.Remember seeing Shillong's grand old man of rock music Mr Lou.Majow perform Bob Dylan cover songs at the " 2016 Times Lit Fest" at Mehboob Studio's in Mumbai. Luckily "Cloud 9",the hippest nightclub in Shillong was having the "Radio City freedom" concert night and although absolutely tired decided to visit this nightspot. Came back to the hotel and after a bucket of hot water bathe went out into the city just strolling along the crowded Police Bazaar.
Jail Road in Shillong.:- " Green Land Hotel".
There was a lot of street food around the main Police Bazaar Square and for the first time in my life in India saw barbeque pork being sold along with chicken on the street. The North East is definitely undiscovered locale in food delicacies normally not seen in the largest city's in India. The weather changed abruptly as dusk set in and realized I would have to don my woolens. Went back to the hotel and after a brief rest of watching football on T.V in my tiny room changed to woolens and hit the street at 2100 hrs. The Britisher's had nicknamed Shillong as the Scotland of the East and reasons are easy to understand .
English rock capital of India ? "CLOUD 9" in Shillong.
Dinner was barbeque pork which was tough to munch reminding me of the barbeque beef in Addis Ababa. After dinner headed to " Centre Point One " just about 100 meters walking distance from my hotel and boarded the lift to the 5th floor of the rooftop nightclub "Cloud 9".The "Radio City Freedom concert" night was in full session and got a exposure to the hip youth crowd of Shillong.Entrance was free for this sponsored Friday night live music party and as I was absolutely tired just intended having a drink and experiencing "Shillong Nightlife".
"STREET FOOD" on bustling Police Bazaar.
Excellent and got to view the latest of "Shillong Hip Hop" with Hip Hop style clothes and hairstyles as also "Smoking the ganja" style lyrics.. Returned back to the hotel at 2300 hrs as I didn't want to get exhausted just at the beginning of my marathon road and trekking travel tour.. Shillong rocks and is definitely one of the music capital city's of India. Weather was cold and realized that carrying my heavy woolens was a necessity.
Viewof the tallest waterfall plunge in India :- NOHKALIKAI WATERFALLS in Cherrapunji(Sohra). March is one of the driest months in Cheerapunji and hence the waterfall flow seems moderate.
Saturday (17/3/2018) :- The normal insomniac sleep pattern as usual although I had a late night. Breakfast was puri / bhaji just outside the hotel on Police street.
Duwan sing siem viewpoint in Dympep(Sohra).
Checked out of the hotel awaiting the tourist office to open and later board the bus. The office opened at 0750 hrs and all tourists on the Sorah tour were allotted seats and the bus number. Boarded Meghalaya State tourist bus Nos 0682 and onto seat Nos 3. Departed Shillong at 0815 hrs with our guide being a young local lady Ms Nebari.Sotun.Our first stop at 0930 hrs was at Duwan sing siem viewpoint with the view of the evergreen valley of the surrounding mountains upto Cherrapunji. Luckily it was a bright day and misty clouds did not block our view of this majestic valley that stretches upto the town of Cherrapunji.
At the"MISSING FALLS" Ecopark in Sohra.
Next at 1045 hrs was the Eco park with a viewpoint of "Missing Waterfalls " so named because the source of this waterfalls is untraceable adding mystyque to the undiscovered North east mountain ranges. Eco Park is a large park designed and maintained by the Meghalaya State government which provides a beautiful view of the evergreen Canyon's and the valley below.Our next stop was at Nohsngithiang waterfalls popularly called the "Seven Sisters Waterfalls".
Exploring "Mawsmai Caves" floodlit with Halogen lamps
This waterfall falls from a height of 1033 ft and at its peak monsoon flow is approximately 70 meters wide. March is the driest month in Cherrapunji and hence we just got a view of the single stream flow of this waterfalls,In peak monsoon it has seven segments of falls and hence the name "Seven Sisters" waterfalls. At 1145 hrs we were inside Mawsmai caves.The caves of Meghalaya comprise of some of the longest caves in the World situated in the Jaintia, Khasi and Garo hills of the State. Of the 10 longest and deepest caves in India the first 9 are in Meghalaya and the tenth in Mizoram.
Ka Khoh Ramhah (Mawtrop)
The longest cave is Krem Liat Prah in the Jantia hills of Meghalaya which is also one of the longest in the World.The Mawsmai limestone cave's are situated about 6 Kms from Cherrapunji and are the only caves to be lit with halogen lamps for visitors to view the interior of this massive cave complex.Only 150 meters of this long cave is accessible to tourists and can be undertaken only by physically fit tourists.Limestone mining for the cement industry is a major threat to the unique cave's of Meghalaya.
Elevated Orchid park with a view of Bangladesh
At 1230 hrs we viewed the Ka Khoh Ramah also called Mawtrop which is a giant conical rock.This giant conical rock resembles a huge upturned Khasi basket and legend has it that this fossilized stone basket belonged to a evil giant who was poisoned by the locals for his evil behaviour and extortion.The basket which he left behind turned into this fossilized stone approximately 200 ft in height.Made acquaintances with Mr Inder. Mishra, a tourist from Mumbai.
Ramakrishna Mission Ashram and school
At 1245 hrs we visited Thankarang park where we relished plucking wild berries from the tree inside the park akin to truant kids.This park is situated in close proximity to Ka Ko Ramhah from where tourists can get a 180* view of the Bangladesh plains below on a bright clear day which is rare in Cherrapunji.. The park also has a excellent orchid garden. Next was Ramakrishna Mission Ashram established in 1924 by Swami Vivekananda.The Ashram complex is large and encompasses aschool, playground, temple information centre and a Anthropology museum .Ramkrishna Mission schools impart education based on moral values like patriotism, honesty,sincerety and purity.
Colonial era houses in Old Sohra.
Visited the Anthropology museum that explained through exhibits and literature the local traditions and culture of the North East states. Our last stop was Nohkalikai waterfalls where we also had our lunch at " Ansiewdor Dhaba" situated at a strategic location on the viewpoint site. Lunch was chicken thali costing Rs 120.After lunch had a walk along the viewpoint of Nohkalikai waterfalls with one of the best views being from the restaurant itself that faces the waterfalls mountain valley.
A Khasi village shop.
Legend of the waterfalls name is tragic as it is named after a local lady Ka Likai who is said to have jumped from the waterfalls on realizing that her baby daughter was murdered by her jealous second husband.At approx 1500 hrs we began the journey back to Shillong. Guide Nebari dropped me at Upper Sorah(Cherrapunji) bus stand and told me that " By the way " homestay was downhill in Lower Sorah.It was a long downhill trek with a heavy backpack, a absolute nomad drifting according to circumstances and situations .
Colonial era cemeteries on hilltops in Cheerapunji.
Luckily a local gentleman driving a car gave me a lift to "By the Way " homestay ,a real long downhill drive to Dukan road,Lower Cherrapunjee. I shuddered at the thought of walking this downhill distance with my backpack.Worse was to follow when the owner Mr Heprit told me that they were fully booked and besides tomorrow was Sunday where everything comes to a standstill in Christian majority State Meghalaya.I had read numerous reviews on "By the Way" homestay and true to the reviews the owner Mr Heprit was very helpful in guiding me in the right direction during a extreme travel emergency.
Scenic"TYRNA VILLAGE" .Stairway to Nongriat.
He adviced me to go to Tyrna village which has a few homestays as I was thinking of heading back to Shillong. Boarded a Rs 10 / person shared taxi just outside the homestay which dropped me at Upper Sorah market. Luck was on my side as I immediately got a connecting shared taxi to Tyrna village. Ten of us passengers were squeezed into the car and along the journey got a sightseeing view of British era Cherrapunji now renamed Sorah with its chimney style bungalows and monumental cemeteries on small hilltops. Drove along the beautiful "Nongsawlia Presbyterian Church" which is the oldest church in Meghalaya and the first church in the North east having been originally built in 1841 AD by the Wesh Fathers and later destroyed in the great earthquake of 1897. It was rebuilt and has celebrated its 175 th anniversary.The largest landmark Industry in Cheerapunji was the "Mawmluh Cheera Cements Ltd" factory that loomed over the region that has negligible cultivation.The name "Sohra " means a place of hard rock and i was amazed to notice the absolute aridness of Cheerapunji akin to a semi desert although receiving one of the heaviest annual rainfall in the World.Nature is fascinating .
"Greenland Homestay":- Memoirs of a lifetime.
Finally reached Tyrna and thanks to the local passengers and the driver that I finally was heading in the right direction. The driver introduced me to Mr Lumlang. Syiemlieh who took me to his homestay " Greenland Homestay " situated a few steps downhill from the main Tyrna taxi stand.. I was given a room in a small cottage situated on the mountainside in the midst of thick evergreen forests.The homestay charges was Rs 400/ night .
House cat akin to a tiger using tree as scratchpost.
What surprised me was the fact that " Reliance Jio" network was functional as also Vodafone network in the midst of thick forest jungle. " UMSHIANG DOUBLE DECKER ROOT LIVING BRIDGE "named after the Umshiang river that flows beneath the bridge.has become a International living wonder of nature and hence trekker tourists frequent this route.I was under the impression that electricity would be a problem in Tyrna village let alone the modern invention of " Internet ".
Classic dinner in "Greenland Homestay".
The weather in Tyrna was pleasant as it is situated at a lower elevation in comparison to Cherrapunji. I was experiencing extremes in weather within a 24 hrs period just travelling by road which proves the exclusive geographical diversity of India.Lucky to live in India to borrow a quote from a Australian tourist i met in Sri Lanka who proudly said he was lucky to be a citizen of Australia where poverty akin to the developing World is non-existant..Dinner was excellent chicken Thali served in a small cottage hut in "5 star hotel" village lifestyle fashion.Owner cum steward Mr Lumlang.Syiemlieh had done a catering course and was offered a job as a liftman in Taj Mahal hotel in Mumbai which he refused as the pay scale was less in comparison to Mumbai's cost of housing for a bachelor and hence he decided to become a entrepreneur developing his own ancestral land into a homestay.
Meghalaya:- Abode of Clouds and evergreen forests.
According to me his decision is on target as his home stay is a future tourist gold mine. I was the only guest in the homestay surrounded by towering evergreen mountains. After dinner slept under a mosquito net for my normal insomniac 4 hrs average sleep.It had rained in the night and was hoping it wouldn't rain in the morning of the trek.
After trekking down 3000 + steps from "Greenland Homestay" my residence in Tyrna village finally arriving at " UMSHIANG DOUBLE DECKER LIVING ROOTS BRIDGE " also called "JINGKIENG NONGRIAT BRIDGE " in Nongriat village of Meghalaya.This bridge is over 180 years old. A photoshoot for "Braggers Rights Club Inc " after having a dip in the waterfalls pool of the Umshiang river that flows below the bridge.
Sunday (18/3/2018) :- Was awake before daybreak and after a breakfast of bread/ Jam began my " Solo Trek " to " Double Decker living roots Bridge " situated down below in Nongriat village. Carried a wooden cane along as a support for my kneesif the going got tough on the return walk upstairs.
Start of 3000 Steps + trek from "Greenland Homestay".
The weather was ideal for a trek, cloudy and cool. It was a total downhill walk along a staircase. I was the lone trekker early in the morning and did the staircase walk imitating the tortoise and not the rabbit ! At my age I deserved a award for just completing this gruelling trek and would once and forever seal my entry into the unique selective " WORLD'S BRAGGERS RIGHTS CLUB Inc ".While descending I heard some voices and saw two young women along with a guide descending the stairs. I had some company on the trekking lane. Picked up a casual conversation as we gradually descended the stairway to " Double Decker living roots Bridge ".
Passing through a Khasi settlement in the forest
On the way we passed a khasi settlement with a few houses built on elevated props above ground level.Noticed Betel nut plantations in this small village settlement. As the descent and ascent of steps increased I was hoping at my age I hadn't bitten off more than I could chew to quote a famous line from the evergreen song "My Way". Got my first experience of a khasi bridge when we came across a sacred forest and had to cross a long narrow iron bridge. The bridge literally shook while we walked along it in a single file and I also lost my bamboo support stick while posing for a photograph for " Braggers Rights Club Inc".After crossing this narrow iron bridge it was again a torturous endless up and down staircase walk towards our destination Nongriat village.
Negotiating a scary wire rope bridge on the trek.
It was a relief on finally seeing the welcome board signpost of Nongriat village. On entering the village was awestruck on viewing my first living root bridge which was two gigantic banyan trees on either side of a stream joined together by their root through wire meshes to form a normal narrow bridge for the Khasi village tribals.The living roots bridge was handmade from the aerial roots of the Banyan tree's..I went photographic crazy on viewing this unique marvel of Nature and human ingenuity. Later walking a few meters away and came to the entrance gate of one of the natural wonders of the World.After paying the nominal entry fee of Rs20/person and a extra Rs 20 for camera walked down a few steps from the entrance gate and at 0900 hrs thought I was in the midst of a film studio shoot sets.
Another bridge enroute to "Double Decker Bridge".
The " UMSHIANG DOUBLE DECKER LIVING ROOTS BRIDGE "also called "JINGKIENG NONGRIAT"was constructed in copybook fashion by weaving together the aerial roots of the gigantic Banyan tree from one side of the Umshiang river to the other side and thus constructing the root bridge across the river.The Bridge was bizarrely perfect to actually be a living organism used as a bridge and resembled a artificial film set bridge. .Hauntingly andunbelievably beautiful is my expression on viewing the bridge for the first time having done my study homework reaswearch before this trekking adventure..All my one and a half hours of 3000 + steps descent trekking tiredness vanished in a instance akin to taking a hallucinating drug.. After a little rest at the Double Decker living roots bridge the eternal gambling psyche made me take the decision to trek further towards the " Rainbow Waterfalls ".
Crossing a"Single Root Living Bridge" on the route.
Thus began a further endless walk and realized that I was the oldest person among the trekkers that passed me along and also alone on the trekking path. Passing a young Canadian Causausian trekker and asked her if I was on the right route to which the reply was in the affirmative.Couldn't believe i was in the World's second most populated Country as i walked the lonely path along the evergreen forest.Walking further came across a " Single living root tree bridge " and just after it a long scary looking wire rope bridge interwined with living roots and dangling across a empty stream.This was a hybrid bridge being a mixture of artificial reinforced steel wires and steel rods weaved with strands of tree roots.Amazing andscary to walk acrioss as it shook and swayed. Nongriat village has three functional "LIVING ROOTS BRIDGE " and this bridge was the third and last bridge of the trek. After crossing these two bridges walked further and came to a small cement bridge with a dead end against a hill. Was this tiny stream with a small waterfall the " Rainbow Bridge " ? I just waited at the spot when the Canadian trekker arrived and told me that I had to cross the stream and walk up the mountain steps.
"Rainbow Falls" too far ? Water from the natural stream.
Envied her casual approach to one of the most gruelling treks akin to a walk in a garden .She must have stayed overnight in Nongriat village and hence fresh in the morning to literally run up the inclined hill towards"Rainbow Falls". Age was also on her side. I did the same and further ahead the walk was too steep making me realize the folly of just punishing my body for a frivolous trek to impress"Braggers Rights Club Inc". Wasn't i already a member of this elite annonymous club ages ago ? What was i trying to prove ? I had already trekked to one of the Natural wonders of the forest and the " Rainbow Falls " was just a added adventure incentive.Thanks to the extended torturous trek towards Rainbow waterfalls that i got to view the third living roots bridge as well as the "Hybrid living roots steel" bridge of Nongriat village. Hedged my trekking bet by deciding to abandon my " Rainbow Waterfalls " trek heading back to the " Double Decker living roots Bridge ".
View of natural Umshiang river pool from Bridge.
A few trekkers were having a dip in the natural pool formed by the waterfalls that flowed below the " Umshiang Double Decker Living roots Bridge ". There was a small "Clothes Change Room " at one end of the natural swimming pool and after changing into my costume had a dip in nature's swimming pool. The water was cold and crystal clear with small fish swimming all over the pool. Got a naturotherapy feet treatment as the fish pecked at my legs, a natural " Fish Massage ".A scene straight out of the English cult film " Mckenas Gold " would best describe the haunting allure of having a dip in the natural pool of " Umshiang Double Decker living roots Bridge ".
A "Fish Massage" in Umshiang river pool after the trek.
Till today this bridge has not been featured in Hindi films or Hollywood Indiana Jone's film franchisee for the simple reason of its remote location. No actor or actress would love trekking to remote Nogriat village and carting heavy studio film equipment to the location is next to impossible task. Hope a helipad is not built near this location as it's remoteness is it's mystique. After the pool dip and "Fish Massage " decided it was time to make my return trek back to Nongriat village. Lunch was at a villagers house and a vegetarian dish of rice and beans.Got a first hand experienceof the hardships and lifestyle of the average villagers of Nongriat.
Goodbye "DOUBLE DECKER BRIDGE"
After lunch it was one of the most torturous treks of my life walking back 3000 step's + to " Greenland Homestay" in Tyrna village.Amidst the dense forest there are also plantations of betelnut trees which are similar to palm trees in appearance being a little thinner with narrower and smaller leaves on its crest.As trekkers passed me along either towards Nongriat or Tyrna village realized i was the oldest trekker of the day .Took intermediate rests on the way uphill finally reaching my destination.This time I was not alone in the homestay and had a Kashmiri and a Israeli trekker as homestay companions. We got into a conversation and learnt a lot from each others experiences.The Kashmiri gentleman Hesham was a motorcycle dealer conversant with travel having lived in Europe and seemed more European than Indian.In Israel serving in the armed forces for a minimum of three years is mandatory and the young Israeli had served in the paratrooper regiment.
3000++ Steps Trek :- Tyrna from Nongriat.
As a life member of "Braggers Rights Club Inc " bragged about having done a tandem para skydive in Cape Town to which he simply asked me the question as to from what height did i jump from the plane.I proudly told him 10,000 ft ++ to which he meekly replied that he was trained to do numerous "Solo Skydives" from just 1000 ft above ground level. A slight error in pressing the parachute button means instant death by crashing to the ground.I couldn't believe that this slim young harmless looking musician gentleman playing a local Israeli instrument similar to a harp was a skilled paratrooper.Looks are deceptive.Travel educates.Got a taste of a unique North East fruit called the Silver berry in English and Soshang in the local language which was similar to the popular Jamun fruit common in Maharashtra. Got addicted to the fruit consuming large quantities that could put a monkey to shame. Dinner was chicken thali .My tiredness didn't increase my sleep time but unlike one of my musical heroes Michael Jackson at least I got 4 hrs sleep without artificial help or sleeping pills.
Boating on the Umngot river in Dawki. The river that forms the boundary between India and Bangladesh.The other members of the "Motorbike Riders" group on our boat are seen in the picture on the other boat with one of them clicking a"Selfie".The gentleman who clicked my photo himself had bikes costing a fortune as well as a few vintage car's.I was on a boat ride with billionaire motorcycle rider's. A unexpected boat ride to remember.
Monday (19/3/2018) :- At 0730 hrs left the scenic " Greenland Homestay " and made my way towards Tyrna Taxi stand.
Hectic Solo road travesl :- Now from Shillong to Dawki
Breakfast was a egg omelette with tea at a local stall on the way to the village. Came across the main Catholic Church of the village and realized that Meghalaya was total Christian state with Churches of different Christian sects a common sight with the most prominent being Catholic Churches. I was surprised to see two churches in the tiny one horse village of Tyrna. Sunday holiday was equivalent to the Jewish Sabbath of Saturday .Was I in Hindu India? This is the beauty and greatness of India where different religions, cultures and languages thrive under a single roof of a United Single Country. Strangely,
Scenic Boating below Dawki Bridge.
I learnt a lot from the young Israeli tourist about the North East then from the media. At 0830 hrs boarded the shared tax to Sohra town centre with the cost amounting to Rs 100.On arriving at Upper Sohra market taxi /bus stand was lucky to get the connecting bus to Shillong costing only Rs 40. The bus terminal was near " Anjali Theatre " which is the main hub for buses and shared taxi's in Shillong. After inquiries was directed to the shared taxi stand and booked myself into a Tata Sumo heading to Dawki paying Rs120/person . Akin to my unforgettable 3 hrs wait in Kanyabe bus terminus in Kampala during my tour of Uganda in January 2018 this Tata Sumo taxi was almost on the verge of breaking my unbreakable Kanyabe bus terminus waiting record .
Boating on Umngot River in Dawki :- Big Business.
After about one and a half hour the Tata Sumo finally took off loaded with ten passengers and cargo fit for a truck.After passing through the bottle neck traffic jam of Shillong city it was a smooth drive on the excellently paved highway towards Dawki.There were 3 Bangladesh tourists in the taxi and was surprised to know the ease of issuance of Indian Visa to Bangladesh Citizens. Akin to the Shenzhen visa for travel Within the European Union. Travel educates.Here I was finding difficulty for a permit to visit a State within my own Country ?
Pebbles visible in clear water in shallow parts of the river.
Facts are stranger than fiction. The view of the evergreen mountains was mesmerizing and came across a tragic accident where a truck had crashed through the highway barrier and had disappeared into the valley below. There was no wreckage of the truck below but just a wreckage of the highway divider. Finally reached Dawki at approximately 1515 hrs and the Bangladesh tourists told me to alight at the boating terminus. A young boy guided me to the river bed from where the boating tours were conducted. Hire charges for a boat was Rs 700/ boat with no sharing of passengers allowed .
View of Umngot river (India Side) from highway.
This is where travelling " Solo" is a handicap unlike travelling in a group .As a " Marine Engineer " having sailed on / off on ships for 23 years this rowing boat ride was ludicrous but having a boat ride on this locale would be for the " Braggers Rights Club Inc ".Been there,Seen that,done that ? Suddenly I spotted two young men boarding a boat and requested them to accommodate me on their hired boat to which they obliged. The boatmen have a strong union and they objected to me being given a ride on a unreserved boat. I paid them Rs 400 which was less than Rs 700 for the entire boat. To me the boat ride was a expensive disappointment in comparison to the reviews I read during my tour research of the North - East.
Boating on Umngot River in Dwarki.
The two gentlemen on the boat had come together in a group with their colleagues boating on another boat alongside us . Picked up their conversation and realized that I was in the company of millionaire biker connouisers. They had come riding on their expensive motorcycles from Kolkatta and one of the gentlemen on the other canoe was heavily tattoed. Inquired about his tattoos and he explained the significance of each tattoo.On one side of the Umngot river with its towering hills is the State of Meghalaya in India and on the other side of flat land is Bangladesh. The water was not as crystal clear as I had read from reviews, highly overhyped because of its location and political significance .
"INDIA-BANGLADESH BORDER on Umngot River.
In fact my dip in the Umshiang waterfalls pool at the " Double Decker living roots Bridge " was in more pure clear water with the fish clearly visible. Sadly the river was also a little polluted with plastic bottles strewn by tourists.. The normal boat ride is first towards the Indian side of the river passing under the overhead bridge and later towards the sandbanks on the Bangladesh side of the river.Most of the riverbed on the Bangladesh side was dry with sand mining in progress.There was a large crowd on the low water level banks of the river at the border .Bangladesh Muslim's could be seen doing their Namaaz while tourist hawkers did brisk business selling Bangladesh delicacies to Indian boat tourists.
View from extreme end of Meghalaya border side.
Purchased a bottle of Bangladesh pickled berries costing Rs 100.. We finally returned ashore and honestly besides the unexpected conversation with the billionaire bikers the boat ride was a total hyped mediocre money churning enterprise for gullible tourists who have never ever seen the sea of a river or ever been on a boat.Thanked my hosts for accommodating me on their boat although not a free ride as I paid the " Boat union " Rs 400. A boat ride of a lifetime for various reasons. The young boy who guided me to the boat jetty then took me back to the main road and accomodated me in a shared taxi heading to Dawki town .
"Selfie" on the Umngot river boat ride.
A bigger disappointment awaited me at Dawki village with the Mosquito infested hotel that I first approached being exorbitantly overpriced quoting Rs1500/night !There are just two hotels in this one horse border town and finally decided to stay in "Lamin guest house " the plusher of the two hotels. On payment of Rs 1000 was given a shabby room without a fan and third grade chawl style dirty shared toilet / bathrooms. The World traveller quickly got acclimatized to the highly inflated hotel accommodation which is the suspense of unplanned " Solo Travel ". Later after a cold water bath headed into the village which has electricity load shedding and hence lack of street lamps.
"Selfie" on the Bangladesh side of Umngot River.
I was getting a first hand visual experience of my Country's diverse economic disparities. .Recent surveys show India to be within the World's top wealthiest country's and I presume the survey concerned only the elite city dwellers like the rupee billionaire bikers with whom I got acquainted on the boat ride and Indians from upper strata of the economic and education ladder which includes me. There are two different Economic India's in One India!.
"Dawki Bridge" over Umngot river.
Dinner was ordinary chicken curry /rice in the hotel restaurant which seemed to be the best restaurant in this one horse Indo / Bangladesh border town. "Greenland Homestay " in Turna village from which i had arrived was a 7 star resort in comparison to Dawki town. Later the hotel management shifted me to a plush new single room with attached bath for the same price as its occupant had failed to turn up. Thanks for the change in accommodation that I got my quota of nights sleep under a fan without any mosquito bites .My costliest room rental on the whirlwind travel where the travel and not the destination has been the challenge of competing against my own travel achievements.
A stroll across the "India - Bangladesh Border" in Dawki. This is the Indian Side of the Border gate.
Tuesday (20/3/2019) :- Walked out of my cosy room at 0600 hrs and had breakfast of " Puri / Bhaji " at a hotel situated on the opposite side of the road .
Trucks on Bangladesh border awaiting to enter India.
After breakfast decided to catch a shared taxi to the " India-Bangladesh Border " checkpost. Was lucky to get a lift as no shared taxi's was available and i didn't want to get ripped off further by hiring a private taxi.Travel educates.. The gentleman dropped me in close proximity to the border post as he was on another route. It was a short walk along a convoy of parked trucks to the International demarcation of India and Bangladesh. I was surprised at the casualness of the security and the Indian Border security guard told me that tourists could walk up-to the demarcation line.. In Mumbai private companies are extremely cautious about entry into their premises and here I was loafing on the International Border akin to a morning jog in a park.
View of "INDIA-BANGLADESH" Road Border.
75 meters behind me is Bangladesh ! No fencing , A walk ,
I was the lone tourist and sure as the day progressed there would be numerous other tourists. At the dot of 0700 hrs saw the first convoy of trucks pass from the Bangladesh side into India. On inquiry with a security guard was told that the Convoy of trucks from India to Bangladesh would cross over at 0900 hrs. I just couldn't believe the India - Bangladesh border to be so open with no fencing or security guards. It was akin to being in Europe which has open borders between the Schengen Country's. Travel educates. I was learning the geographical and political situations of my own country.
Dawki Town early in the morning.
Walking back to Dawki village was lucky to get a shared taxi to my hotel at the standard rate of Rs 10/ Person.Had a talk with the hotel owner Mr Chang.Lamin who told me that there were only two hotels in Dawki village with his hotel definitely being the best of the two.He explained me regarding the shared taxi's and buses to and from Shillong.There was only one bus service early in the morning from Dawki to Shillong and after that shared Sumo or private taxi'swas the only mode of transport to Shillong.Dawki was proving to be the costliest destination of my North east road travel and under any circumstabces didn't want to miss the first shared taxi out of this one horse border town village.At 0930 Hrs boarded the shared taxi sumo to Shillong. On reaching Shillong was dropped at Anjali complex taxi stand. Walked from Anjali bus stand to Police Bazaar and on the route had a peep in Bada Bazaar,the biggest market in Shillong. On reaching Police Bazaar immediately booked.my bus ticket for Itanagar costing Rs 650 at a bus transport shop situated on Jail road just next to my hotel. Kept my heavy backpack with a lottery ticket seller on Jail road. Strolled along Police bazaar having lunch at Trattoria, a local Khasi restaurant. The hotel owner Mr Ritchie. Suting explained me the various pork dishes and the fact that his restaurant was 40 years old.
In "Police Bazar(Shillong)" enrote to Arunachal Pradesh.
A landmark in Shillong for local Khasi food specializing in Pork cuisine. PoliceBazar in Shillong is akin to Paltan Bazar in Guwahati, the focal point of the city.After lunch it was dessert and later picked my haversack and walked downhill to Pologround. A exhibition "Leo Expo" was being held on a section of Polo grounds and on a entrance fee of Rs 20 entered the exhibition venue.There were exhibit stalls from various states of India including Maharashtra as well as stalls from foreign country's like Afghanistan,Egypt,Iran and Thailand.. After a stroll around the exhibition stalls visited the Royal Enfield showroom in the vicinity. Bus was punctual in departure at 1630 hrs.At 2300 hrs stopped for dinner at "Nahar Annapurna Dhaba" in Koliabor Tiniali town of Nagaon district of Assam. .The road journey was good although almost a sleepless night of road travel.
"APATANI HOUSING COLONY" in Ziro Valley. The "Myoko Festival" that is celebrated from March 20th to April 20 th for a month was in progress during my visit to this tribal village.
Wednesday (21/3/2018) : - On reaching the Arunachal Pradesh State border at "Hollongi Police Checkgate" in Papumpare district had to produce my " I. L. P" certificate and so also my other co-passengers. Reached Itanagar early in the morning at 0500 hr. Ziro is approximately 115 Kms from Itanagar by road.
Arrival at Ganganagar in Itanagar in Arunachal Pradesh.
A very disorderly main bus / taxi terminus at Ganganagar locality of Itanagar with road repairs in progress. Road travel is one of my major travel expences on all solo tours be it in India or foreign country's. Made acquaintances with a boyish looking man who turned out to be a C. B. I officer from Shillong on a assignment in Ziro. He definitely didn't require the " I. L. P " certificate !Looks can be so deceptive and Hindi movies and James Bond have given us movie addicts a glamorous account of the cloaks and daggers game which can actually in real life be drab and boring.
North East Travel Safari by Road :- Itanagar to Ziro.
Booked my shared sumo ticket for Hapoli Town in Ziro valley at Ganganagar taxi stand costing Rs 400/person.and at 0630 hrs the sumo began the journey from Itanagar to Ziro. After a few minutes drive we began the uphill mountain climb surrounded by evergreen alpine mountains and cool weather.Ziro is a favourite hill station during the hot summer months on the Indian plains. Incredible India where a person can experience all the World's geographical climatic conditions within the boundary of a single country.
With the "Liagitadu" Apatani family in their house.
We Indians might not be the wealthiest of nations on the Global economic wealth Index but is definitely among the top ten Country's in the World having maximum geographical and climatic diversity within its boundaries. At 1130 hrs reached the main taxi stand of Hapoli town centre of Ziro valley situated at a altitude of 5,500 ft.Ziro is one of the oldest towns in Arunachal Pradesh and home to the Apatani tribe of Arunachal Pradesh.As usual made inquiry about lodges and booked a common shared bathroom room in " Ankita Hotel " costing Rs 400/ day. One of the filthiest toilet bathrooms reminding me of Mumbai's once upon a time infamous chawl housing.I didn't dare take a bathe in the dirty chill cold common bathroom and after a wash changed and made inquiries about the " Myko Festival " being celebrated by the Apatani tribe of Ziro Valley.
Tageapa family home.Food being cooked.
I had specially made this trip to get a insight into North East India tribal culture.My main objective of this travel adventure was to trek to the "Double Decker Living roots bridge" since a prestigious American magazine recommended it as one of the must do and see travel itinerary in Asia and what America recommends is considered the best by a majority of the rest of the World.My other objective was to also visit any one of the North East tribal villages having initially wanting to visit the Konyak village of Longwa in Nagaland to meet the last of the tattoed "Konyak Headhunters" before they died out and became a part of Anthropology history.The ludicruous "I.L.P" red tapism put off my plan's of visiting Nagaland as time was not in my favour.Travel research enlightened me on the unique "Myoko Festival" celebrated in Ziro valley by the Apatani tribe and hence my journey to the Eastern most state of India.Another factor that fascinated me about Ziro was the name"ZIRO"! Why was this village named Ziro( pronounced Zero) ?
Barren and water logged Paddy Fields in Ziro Valley.
In Mumbai and the elite Western music World "ZIRO" got some recognition after the founding of the annual "Ziro Music Festival" in 2012 by Bobby.Hano and"Menwhopause" guitarist Anup.Kutty.Since 2012 the Apatani tribe has been hosting the Ziro festival annually for a span of four day's akin to the landmark American Woodstock music festival of 1969 that has become a benchmark for all future rock and music festivals all over the World.A open air concert featuring various musical performer's and artists. If i couldn't make it to the"Ziro Music Festival" was lucky enough to be at the right place at the right time to experience the unique "Myoko Festival". of the Apatani tribe .
Inside Mudang Tage Apatani village in Ziro Valley.
. Boarded a shared taxi from Hapoli taxi stand and after a short drive through barren and water logged Paddy fields reached the main entrance gate of "Mudang Tage Village", the Apatani tribal village in Ziro valley.. The short shared taxi ride cost me only Rs 20 and on entering the village wondered if I was in India ? Travel educates. Beautiful bamboo walled houses with tin roofs lined the Apatani housing complex, so different from the average concrete houses I was accustomed to seeing in other locales and states of India. Saw a family outside their bamboo house and asked for permission to visit their house.
Palatial APATANI HOUSE partly made of Bamboo.
Akin to the Sikh religion providing free Gurudwara meals in their Gurdwara Complexes similarly during the Myko festival the Apatani housing complex residents offers free food and drinks to any stranger visiting their residence.The Liagitadu family whose house i had entered pampered me with their amazing hospitality. The head of the house Mr Josaph Liagit and his wife MrsYanko.Liagi wife were not fluent in Hindi or English being the old generation Apatani villagers speaking their own Apatani dialect. His nephew Mr Hinda(Christian name "Martin") .Liagi spoke fluent English akin to a International school educated student having completed his B.A and now in search of employment. He briefly explained me the culture of the Apatani tribe and significance of Myko festival.The Apatani tribe are Christian converts and normally use their Apatani names along with their Christian names.
Various different branches of Christianity in Ziro valley.
I told him i was interested in meeting the "Village Shaman" to which he explained that the"Village Shaman" was non existant in present day Ziro and each family performed certain rituals before sacrificing a chicken or a pig. I felt of being on the sets of a Western wild west film rather than in a simple common house of one of the unique tribes of India's amazingly beautiful North East region. I was controlling my liquor consumption as my hosts kept pouring " Rice beer " into my mug.Excellent home made beer that gave me a smooth high akin to "Black Label Scotch ".This"Rice Beer" takes about a week for brewing .
A walk in the Apatani village of Ziro.
Yours truly has tasted liquor from all corners of the World so please take my opinion without a pinch of salt ! Most of the families living in the Apatani colony were interrelated and I was also shown the beautiful bamboo house of definitely one of the wealthiest among the Apatani tribe.Took a photograph with the male members of the Liagitadu family as the women do not pose for photograph's with strangers.Photograph's of Apatani women with nose rings and tattoo's is a common tourist brochure advertisement but in modern times present Apatani women do not wear such pierced rings or tattoo's.In fact it is banned in present Apatani society and hence a part of National geographic history photographs of a tradition that once existed and nowconfined to the history books. I didn't spot any Ziro village woman with the unique "Nose ring". although did spot a few women with light facial tattoo's.
Beautiful Ziro valley surrounded by Pine tree hills.
Finally thanked my host for their amazing hospitality and explored the small Apatani housing colony.Next entered the residence of Tageapa Appa whose house interior was identical to the Liagitadu family whom I had just visited. Mrs Tagenari the matron of the house and her brother in- law along with their domestic help made me feel at home offering me rice beer with chicken as starters and later a tribal meal of rice with chicken. For the first time in my life I was having drinks and snacks as a total uninvited guest and is a memory of a lifetime.
"Beef Meat" naturally preserved
Had a look around the independent bamboo walled house cottage and akin to the Liaitadu family cottage came across a huge chunk of raw beef meat kept on a bamboo polee in the open air in the cottage open air store-room.Reminded me of the chunks of smoked pork legs kept hanging in restaurants in Madrid and Lisbon.On inquiry was told that this beef meat was kept in the open air for feeding visitors during the"Myoko Festival" and did not get rotten unlike in meat shops.The cold weather of Ziro valley kept the meat fresh for days akin to the seasoned pork legs served in Spain and Portugal.Travel educates . Bid my hosts goodbye and on the highway got a lift back to Hapoli Village.Hapoli village has no nightlife and at night's it gets chill cold.Reliance network was non functional and my Vodafone sim card kept me in connectivity with the 21st century.Liquor is tax free in Arunachal Pradesh and purchased three kingfisher beer cans as companionship for my solo road travel.
"Liagitadu" Apatani family of "Mudang Tage" Village.
Booked my shared Sumo taxi ticket to Lower Lakhimpur for next day early morning at the local travel agent shop.
There was nothing else for me to sightsee or explore in Ziro valley having had a unbelievable reception by the two Apatani families .Ziro has been suggested numerous times for declaration as a"World Heritage Site" by "UNESCO" and may soon get the title as it is a real unique valley. Dinner was pork curry rice at Valley view hotel just opposite my hotel. After dinner came back to my hotel room and whiled away my time browsing T. V channels and finally sticking to " VH1" channel. I hate the cold and was also one of the reasons I never thought of migration to any of the First World Country's. A sleepless night in chilling cold weather and a bad cough and cold to add to my personal living misery .
Entrance to "GARAMUR SATRA" in Garamur village on Majuli Island.Majuli Island is the biggest river island in the World situated on the Brahmaputra river .I n 2016 it became the first island in India to be made into a district."Garamur Satra" is considered a prominent holy site and was established in 1656 A.D by Jayaharideva.
Thursday (22/3/2018) : - At 0500 hrs got a wake up call from the taxi manager although I was awake and listening to : VH 1" much before the wake up call.
Raresighting of the "MITHUN".
After all the passengers arrived the Tata Sumo began its long downhill journey to Lower Lakhimpur ..A young Israeli tourist was the only foreigner among the taxi packed with passengers. .It was a beautiful early morning downhill drive and for the first time got a view of the Mithun which resembles a cross breed between a Gaur and a buffalo .A beautiful animal common to the cold high altitude mountains of Nagaland and Arunachal Pradesh.I was wearing my sub zero jacket and on arriving at Sea level in Assam noticed the abrupt change in ambient temperatures. I was now feeling hot in my heavy winter thermal clothing.
Garamur Town in Majuli.
Incredible North East India where just in a span of 3 hours a person could experience cold temperate climatic conditions as well as normal tropical weather. This happens only in India. We passed through the palatial Dejoo tea estate in Lower Lakhimpur before finally reaching my destination Lower Lakhimpur taxi stand.. My final destination was Majuli island as also of the Young Israeli tourist passenger. Mr Aron. Sopher . I was his guide in boarding the right shared taxi from Lower Lakhimpur to our next stop Dhakuakhana.Again from Dhakuakhana we boarded another shared taxi which was through one of the worst roads i have travelled during my endless road trips across the globe.Finally after endless bumps at 1345 hrs reached the outskirts of Majuli island .
Majuli Island.Kamlabari Ghat side.Notice the soil erosion.
Purchased some odd looking bananas and on opening the banana was surprized to find large hard seeds inside the sweet soft fruit of this amazing energy food.For the first time in my life had a taste of the North East wild banana fruit. Had to change to another shared taxi again travelling through some of the worst roads in my lifetime passion of road travel before finally at 1500 hrs reaching our destination Garamur village. We arrived on Majuli by the land route which is rare for tourists and i realized the reasons after the bumpy road ride. Normally most tourists enter or depart from Majuli by using the ferry service boats plying between Nimati Ghat from the mainland of Jorhat town and Kamalabari Ghat situated on Majuli Island.Majuli Island had a area of 880 Sq Km at the turn of the 20th century but in 2014 has just 352 Sq Kms having lost the land to soil erosion by the Brahmaputra river.
At Kamlabari Ghat on Majuli Island.
As usual checked into the cheapest lodge in the vicinity which was " Island Lodge " costing Rs 300/night situated just opposite the main street entrance gate to " Garamur Satra " .Majuli island is the centre of the Assamese Neo- Vaishnavite cult and hence the estrablishment of Satra's across different parts of the island.There were originally 65 Satra's in Majuli but at present there are only 22 Satra's.Majuli is known for its skilled pottery artisans and clay mask making cottage industry. "Island Lodge " was way ahead of " Ankita hotel" in cleanliness although both had common sharing toilet / bathe. The best of tiny single room chawls can be maintained on par with the plushest large living quarters. After a nice cold shower explored the vicinity and akin to Ziro seemed to be a One horse town where everything closes after 2100 hrs. Dinner was the cheapest fish curry / rice costing Rs 70 with extra helping of rice.I was leading the ascetic travel life on the road.
Classic poster card photo clicked by co-safari tourist Mr Viswanath Seshagiri of Bangalore in the Western (Bagori)Zone of the park .This giant Rhinocerous was walking on the road following our jeep while another tourist jeep was following it from behind . Ask any naturalist or wildlife photographer and he or she would admit that "LUCK" more than expensive photographic equipment or decades of jungle experience is the key to spotting wildlife in their natural environment.The best of wildlife video's have been made by amateur tourist photographers who happened to be at the "Right Place at the Right Time". Remember the famous "Tiger Leaping onto the Mahout" video of Kaziranga Park that went viral all over the World ? We were very lucky in sighting Rhino's as it was literally raining rhino's.They looked so numerous and common in the Western zone of the National park akin to common cattle.Was also lucky in spotting large Tusker elephants,water buffaloes ,wild boars ,Serpent eagle and the elusive Great Hornbill.
Friday (23/3/2018) : - It rained heavily in the night and I also had a sleepless night due to severe cough and cold.
Our first Rhino sighting on entering the park.
Not much mosquitoes in my tiny room, thanks to the overhead fan that repelled mosquitoes from making me their meal..Seems my arrival in Garamur has heralded the start of the 2018 Monsoon season in Assam.At 0700 hrs boarded the shared taxi to Kamlabari Ghat. The journey to the ghat was along scenic barren rice fields and wetland's. Birdwatcher's can have a good day in these wetland's spotting rare migratory birds as this island is almost pollution free barring vehicular traffic emissions.The Southern part of this island is a bird watcher's paradise between the months of November to March..I would be visiting Kaziranga and bird watching not my cup of tea and hence did not spend another day on this largest river island in the World.At the Ghat boarded the Ferry to Nimita Ghat .It was a one hour journey in excellent cool weather with the ticket price being Rs 15.On reaching Nimati Ghat again boarded a shared taxi to Jorhat costing Rs30. Breakfast of Paratha / Sabji costing Rs 30 was at "Jay - 15" restaurant.After breakfast boarded a auto rickshaw with the fare being Rs 50 to "I. S. B. T(Inter State bus terminus)" junction .
Wild Indian Buffaloes :- Photo Mr Visvanath Seshagiri.
At 1015 hrs boarded the Tezpur bus with my destination being Kaziranga National Park and the ticket fare being Rs 80.The bus journey along the highway was through endless tea estates and occasionally through barren Paddy fields. Even the highway corridor across the Kaziranga National Park was lined with tea plantations Finally at 1230 hrs reached Kohra main gate of Kaziranga National Park. Checked into room N0 1 of "Drongo Guest House" at Rs 700/ Night. A excellent clean guesthouse situated in a Prime location of the National Park expansive village locale.Enquired with the guesthouse manager about the Safari tours deciding to do the "Shared Safari jeep " tour as the elephant Safari ride costing Rs 900/Person for Indian tourists was inconvenient being from 0500 hrs to 0600 hrs at dawn and requiring a long jeep ride to the point of the "Elephant Ride Point". I had already experienced a unforgettable elephant ride at the " Chitwan National Park " in Nepal and hence decided to skip the same in Kazaringa..
Indian Tusker :- Photo Mr Visvanath.Seshagiri.
Decided to do a jeep Safari immediately and hence made my way to the National Park booking office which isa long walk from the main road of Kohra..Luckily got a motorcycle lift at the entrance gate to the booking counter which is almost a kilometer from the main gate entrance.Kaziranga National park spanning approximately 430 Sq Kms hold's two third's of the World's Great one horned rhinocerous.The park was established in 1908 as a reserve forest on recommendation of Mary.Curzon, the wife of Lord Curzon. There are 4 tourist safari zones within this large national park.A) Mihimukh in Central range in Kohra.B) Bagori in Western range in Bagori.C) Agaratoli in Eastern range at Agaratoli and D) Ghorakati in Buraphar range at Ghorakati. As a solo traveller it's hotel bookings and Safari tours that puts you at a disadvantage in comparison to package group guided tours. I was told to wait in case a vacancy was found in any of the jeep bookings. Waiting at the booking counter chanced upon two men wanting to join a shared jeep and simultaneously a young Czech couple appeared inquiring about a Safari tour.
Serpent Eagle :Photo Mr Visvanath Seshagiri.
Hence on the spur of the moment total strangers got together and a small tour group of 5 tourists was formed .We booked a jeep for a Safari in the " Western Range ( Bagori zone) " of Kazaringa National Park.My contribution was Rs 650 while the Czech Foreign couple Mr and Mrs Honza Dvorak paid a slightly higher fee as foreigners are charged more than local Indian Citizens. As we drove from the jeep booking counter to the " Western Range " entrance gate along a highway lined with tea plantations we all got a bit familiarised with each other. Mr Visvanath. Seshagiri from Bangalore was a hobbyist professional photographer carrying along his telephoto lens SLR camera with his photos being published in some magazines.He was travelling with his driver,local Assamese Mr Deba.Bora. Visiting wildlife parks in India and photographing wildlife was his passion. With his permission i have posted a few of his photographs in describing our Kaziranga safari tours.Rest of us were all common Safari tourists with me embarrassed to admit that I belonged to the exclusive " Braggers Rights Club Inc" !
Buffaloes and Rhino :Photo Mr Visvanath Seshagiri.
We got to view rhino's, elephants and buffaloes with the " Big Cat " watching us but not allowing us to watch it in its natural environment. Spotting a tiger in Kaziranga is rare and would require repeated Safari tours until you got lucky.Mr Viswanathan.Seshagiri told me he has been visiting the Bandipur forests in Karnataka for decades but has yet to spot a tiger in this forest. Akin to a tiger a rhino walked on the motorized road and another rhino casually waded in a pond just next to the road. Among the herd of elephants spotted two handsome Tusker's and a baby tusker.
Is "BIG CAT" watching :-Photo Mr Visvanath Seshagiri.
For the first time spotted a Great Hornbill sitting comfortably on a tree. Spotted a pair of wildboars along with their piglets. The wild buffaloes with their long horns resembled ordinary water buffaloes unlike their African counterparts that Lions are afraid to tackle alone. After the Safari drove back to the main jeep registration gate with all five of us deciding to visit another zone tomorrow morning. Noticed " Kohra Medical " shop on the main road and inquired with the chemist for some cough /cold medicine. He gave me a red coloured syrup bottle and on entering my room immediately took my dose of medicine. I had skipped lunch in haste for the jeep tours and dinner was " Chicken Thali ".
KAZIRANGA JEEP SAFARI TOUR in Mihimukh in Central range in Kohra :- L-R :- Mr Rudolph.A.Furtado,Mr Viswanath.Seshagiri,Mr Honza.Dvorak,Mrs Dvorak.
Saturday (24/3/2018) :- It had rained heavily after midnight and thanks to the cough syrup my cold had reduced and was tolerable.
Jeep Safari office in "KOHRA ZONE" of Kaziranga
Sunrise is early in the North East of India and at 0500 hrs it was daybreak. Walked out of " Drongo Guest House " and realized I was early at 0600 hrs in search of my cup of tea. Entered "Kancha's hotel " which was the first tiny shop to open in Kohra village and had my cup of tea. Made friends with the hotel cat that was enjoying the semi wild life. Later had a breakfast of " Omelette / Bread" at the restaurant next to my guest House. There was no electricity due to the heavy overnight rains and the guesthouse used a inverter for basic electricity in the premises.The showers began again in the morning and was hoping that our morning Safari was not a washout.
Hog Deer with fawn :-Photo Mr Visvanath Seshagiri.
Good I had done the afternoon Safari yesterday for a Investor/Gambler knows that in life always hedge your bets and that's also one of the principles of the "Life Insurance Industry". .At 0930 hrs made my way to the booking office of the Central zone range having got a lift at the gate entrance. Mr Viswanath. Seshagiri who helped form our small group of shared Safari tourists was present along with the Czech couple. The Safari tour was not abandoned as the rains stopped abruptly and we booked our jeep . The cost amounted to Rs 750 for Viswanath and myself and a little extra charges for the Czech couple,Mr Honza.Dvorak and Mrs Dvorak
At 1000 hrs we began our Safari in the Mihimukh part of Central range in Kohra. Our driver cum guide was yesterday's driver Mr Rajesh. Kumar and unlike yesterday's Safari in the Western zone there were no rhinos to greet us on entrance into the Central zone. At the "Elephant Ride Platform and watchtower " observed the gaugings on the platform wall of the" Flood Water levels" which was unbelievable.Almost 85 % of Kaziranga National park we were viewing was submerged during the Brahmaputra flood that happened last year in August 2017 which was the worst flood since1988.
Jeep Safari in Central Zone.
Nearly 225 animals were killed during this disastrous 2017 flood with just the main highway road and a few hilltops being above the flood water levels.The Brahmaputra river normally floods the park every year with the animals migrating to higher grounds in the park. Spotted a small family of elephants in the distance but no rhino's. Sighted a herd of Wild buffaloes from close range but the rhino's evaded us. This zone had more of deer's and sighted a large herd of hog deer and also the elusive barking deer .
Wild Buffalo :-Photo Mr Visvanath Seshagiri.
Among birds our best sightings were the Serpent Eagle and the Brahminy ducks besides numerous other species of ducks.
The lone rhino spotting of the day in "Central Zone".
After almost two hrs of Safari we had not sighted a single rhino and were on our way towards the exit when suddenly the Czech tourist Mrs Dvorak sighted a movement in the elephant grass just below our main forest road. Stopped the jeep and to our disbelief a giant rhino emerged from the tall elephant grass into the open just a few meters from our vehicle. We had finally come face to face with the iconic animal of Kaziranga which tourists from all over the World travel to experience during a Safari .At 1245 hrs our Safari came to a fulfilling end with the rain not playing spoiled Safari sport .
"Elephant Platform" and watch tower for Elephant rides
Lunch was a simple " Fish thali ( Rs 100)" at Mustak hotel where I had eaten my breakfast.At 1430 hrs boarded the bus to Guwahati. Excellent luxury bus with the ticket being Rs 300. Reached Guwahati at 2000 hrs with the last stop being the " I. S. B. T(Inter State Bus Terminus) " junction which is a long way from Paltan Bazar. Boarded a shared taxi to Paltan bazar with the fare being Rs 30. Iwas absolutely haggard and trudged gradually along crowded Paltan Bazar locality.
Entrance/Exit to Mihimukh(Central Zone) Range
Inquiring about lodges finally got a room in Hotel Bhargav situated just a few buildings away from "La Farhad " lodge my "Bonny(First)" hotel at the start of my adventures travel of North East India Was given room N0 126 on the second floor with the rental being Rs 450/ Night. Excellent self contained Hongkong style clean tiny room with attached bath and a T. V. In hindsight "Al Farhad" proved to be very expensive in comparison to classic Middle class budget" Hotel Bhargav.Paltan Bazar has a string of hotels,lodges and guest houses catering to various strata's of economic budgets and the choice is of the customer.
Entrance to Assam Zoo.
Sunday (25/3/2018) :- End of my whirlwind land travel across the North East and back in familiar Paltan Bazar of Guwahati.
Palm Sunday mass at Don Bosco(Guwahati).
Morning breakfast was a " Puri / Sabji " in Raja hotel, one of the numerous tiny restaurant hotels situated next to each other on Paltan Bazar. At 0630 hrs the street was booming with activity and congested city traffic. Weather was excellent .Cool but not chill as in Shillong and Ziro .Did a Google Search on the nearest church in the vicinity of Paltan Bazaar. and hence after direction inquiries crossed over the railway station bridge and entered Pan Bazar. When I entered St Joseph's church compound situated within the Don Bosco school complex the" Palm Sunday " religious rituals were in progress. After distribution of betel nut palm leaves to the worshipers there was a procession to Don Bosco School hall where a high mass was conducted. Don Bosco school founded in 1948 is run by the Catholic Salesian fathers and is one of the prominent private schools of the North East .The large school hall was packed to capacity and observed the quotes of prominent World leaders and personalities inscribed on the school hall walls.I also love quote's akin to a daily vitamin pill for beginning the day. The Mass got over at 1030 hrs hrs. After mass walked over the flyover railway bridge and boarded a local bus toGaneshguri flyover with my destination being the Assam Zoo.Reached Ganeshguri Flyover at 1115 hrs with the bus ticket being only Rs 5.At Ganeshguri boarded the connecting bus to the zoo with the ticket being Rs 5.Public city transport is very cheap in Guwahati in comparison to Mumbai. Travel within my own country was educating me on the diversity in economics as well as culture of India.
Gibbon in Assam Zoo.
Entrance to the zoo was Rs 30 and being a Sunday was crowded with local visitors.The Assam zoo was opened in 1958 and is spread across 432 acres within the Hengrabari reserved forests .Honestly I was disappointed by the zoo maintenance although some of the enclosures were large.Part of the zoo is on a small hillock and requires a little trekking and hence not suitable for elderly visitors. The zoo seemed to be undergoing some maintenance work during my visit as some cages seemed empty and abandoned while road paving was in progress in some areas of this large zoo. Assam being the home of the Gibbon monkeys has them in a large number at the zoo. They were howling in shrill voices during my visit.The zoo has a few deer's roaming freely around the park which was definitely one of their prime exhibits of a open air zoo.. Viewed the Pygmy hog with the zoo claiming to be the only zoo in the World that has this species in captivity. Resembled a young common piglet if kept along with farm pigs .The Brow antlered deer from Manipur was one of the rare exhibits in the zoo.Having visited zoo's all over India let alone the World I was disappointed by the maintenance of the largest zoo in the North East of India. After the zoo visit boarded the bus to Ganeshguri.
On alighting at Ganeshguri made inquiries about the location of " Gam's Delicacy restaurant ", considered within the top ten best restaurants in Guwahati serving authentic Assamese cuisine. After a short walk entered " Gam's Delicacy restaurant " which had the ambience of a 5 star restaurant. Lunch was " Pigeon meat with potatoes " served with rice. Readers familiar with my travel blogs should know that I taste the exotic local dish of every country or city I visit. Pigeon meat is chicken compared to some of the bizarre local dishes I have come across but not tasted. The food was excellent although the Pigeon meat was more of bones and less of flesh unlike chicken meat. The bill amounted to a fancy Rs 425, normal considering the ambiance and the positive press reviews of this restaurant.
Traffic Free "Guwahati Riverside" on Sunday.
In fact this one dish could be shared between two diners and hence I got half of the order parceled for a beer dinner in my tiny Hongkong style hotel room in lively Paltan Bazar. After lunch boarded the bus to Paltan Bazar and relaxed with the T. V playing Hindi songs while I blogged on the smartphone.After dinner decided to visit the Brahmaputra river front but on enquiring about the buses was told that the entire river causeway road was closed to vehicular traffic on Sunday evening's. A motorcyclist gave me a lift upto Pan Bazaar junction from where it was a long walk to M.. G road popularly called riverfront road.
Floating "Kaamakaazi Discotheque" on the Brahmaputra
The entire road was filled with people instead of vehicles with street hawkers doing brisk business. Unlike a seafront where the lashing of waves creates a sound the riverfront just resembled a quiet empty blank space of water with a few boats anchored along the riverside. Something totally different to walking along a seacoast. There was a floating boat converted into a discotheque called the " Kamikaze " with a entrance fee of Rs 300. After a long walk along the riverfront walked all the way back to Paltan Bazar.
"FERRY SERVICE ON THE BRAHMAPUTRA RIVER IN GUWAHATI" :- Ferry service jetties along the riverside .
Monday (26/3/2018) :- The cough and cold kept me disturbed but did get some sleep.
My hotel in congested Paltan Bazar near railway station.
At 0630 hrs walked out of my hotel into bustling Paltan Bazar. Breakfast was " Puri / Egg Omelette at " Kamakhya Dhaba". After breakfast returned back to hotel got dressed and boarded the bus to Guwahati Riverfront. On arrival at the riverfront walked to the Ferry terminal and boarded the Ferry to North Guwahati . At 0800 hrs the ferry departed with a few motorcycle passengers and normal commuters. The ticket was Rs 3/ passenger. Unbelievable fare for a ferry journey of 20 minutes .On alighting on the Northern bank of the river walked up the silt bed of the river onto Rajaduar village.
Guwahati to Rajaduar Ferry(North Guwahati) Service.
From crowded and traffic congested Metropolitan Guwahati city a mere 20 minutes launch ride transferred me into a total rural environment. .Unbelievable contrasts of living and lifestyles on either sides of Guwahati. North Guwahati is noted for the I. I. T institution and temples.After having some milk with ginger paste at a small teastall made my way back to the boat jetty and boarded a private ferry back to Guwahati Metropolitan with the fare being Rs 10. From the jetty walked across to Fancy Bazaar crowded with hawkers and beetle nut / Paan sellers.
Rajaduar(North Guwahati) main jetty town centre.
Later with great difficulty found a cybercafe in Fancy Bazar for some office work.Next purchased a bottle of honey from a chemist for my chronic allergic cold. Next stop was at the Assam Museum which was closed on Monday's. Returned by a A/ C bus with the ticket being Rs 10 back to Paltan Bazar and my tiny room which continuously plays Hindi video music as there are no English channels.Lunch was the now familiar dish of " Fish Thali " in Palton bazar. Palton Bazar bore a eerie resemblance to Mumbai's Byculla station locality of the 1970's with its chawl style lodges and hotels and crowded streets.
"Sports Authority of India" stadium in Paltan Bazar.
Hotel Bhargav was a excellent chawl style hotel, clean and well maintained with a nominal rental rate. Later in the evening visited the "Sports Authority of India " stadium situated in the backyard of " Al Farhad " guesthouse and was amazed at the maintenance and various sports faculties provided by the sports federation. Young kids were practicing archery while some were doing athletics workouts .Met a parent Mr Rajan. Roy whose young kid was specializing in Badminton.
Cycle Vegetable sellers in Paltan Bazar.
This was a First World designed stadium definitely on par with the best in the World. Ussain. Bolt would not feel out of place training on this synthetic track in Paltan Bazar of Guwahati. With stadiums like this it's a bestseller mystery story as to the secret that prevents India from producing a Individual Olympics Gold medal winner. Later in the evening strolling aimlessly around Paltan Bazar chanced upon the fish and meat market of the locality.I never ever miss the opportunity of visiting a fish market in any part of the World least of all in my home country India.
"Paltan Bazar", the focal point of Guwahati.
Strangely I found only men selling fish and not women as is common in my home city of Mumbai. Strolled around the market later also posing for a photograph holding two large fish although having never ever caught a single fish in my entire lifetime to date. .Once a sailor always a sailor and somehow water and the sea has a strange hold on my psyche. Dinner was "Duck curry/ Rice ( Rs 160 ) at a small restaurant in Paltan Bazar.. After dinner dessert was Jalebi's. Watched Hindi music on T. V before managing to fall asleep with the chronic cough and cold making my sleep miserable.
Assam State Museum in Guwahati.
Tuesday (27/3/2018) : - End of my thirteen days stay in the North East of India that was a great success barring the viral infection of cold towards the end of the marathon road travel.
Assam High Court in Guwahati.
Breakfast was at the usual Paltan Bazar Dhabha. While having breakfast in the Dhabha the sky suddenly opened to a heavy downpour of rain accompanied with lightning and thunder. I was witnessing the first onset of the Monsoon season in Guwahati and hoped that my plane flight wouldn't be delayed or at worse cancelled due to bad weather.At 0930 hrs checked out of my room keeping my backpack at the reception. Boarded the bus to Assam museum alighting at the High Court Building. Finally managed to find my way to the museum. At 1000 hrs entered the museum with the entrance fee being Rs 5. The museum has a large collection of photos and correspondence of Mahatma Gandhi. Some of the photos and correspondence to various World leaders of his era are priceless.
Sculpture Gallery of Assam State Museum.
The ethnological section explains various tribes of Assam. The Sculpture gallery on the ground floor has sculptures of Hindu God's and Goddesses dating from the 7 th to the 14 th centuries in excellent condition akin to replicas. Very well maintained .A very large museum that would require a entire day for proper educated viewing.In the War section of the museum got to view the weapons used during the Second World War Japanese attack on the North East states of Manipur and Nagaland. Lunch was at " Manav hotel and restaurant " in Paltan Bazar. The now standard and boring " Fish thali / rice". Was homesick for homefood from my house caretaker Ms Sabina Dias, one of the best cook's I have come across having tasted food from all corners of the World and India.Booked the airport bus ticket costing Rs 90 at the " A. S. T. C(Assam StateTransport Corporation) " depot situated just opposite Bhargav hotel in Paltan Bazar.From "PALTAN BAZAR" all localities in Guwahati and destinations in all corners of the North East is reachable through various modes of transport.
Landmark Paltan Masjid in Paltan Bazar.
At 1400 hrs the A/c bus began its journey to the airport and at approximately 1500 hrs was at Guwahati airport. After the normal airport formalities collected my boarding ticket for my "GoIndigo.in" flights to Kolkata and a transit from Kolkata to Mumbai. Next after passing through security relaxed in the departure lounge .Guwahati airport is well maintained with excellent air-conditioning and cleanliness.There was another security check while boarding the "GoIndigo.In" aircraft,something new in my recent air travels.Departure was punctual on time and reached Kolkata within a hour.
Comfortable air travel back to Mumbai from Guwahati.
. .At Kolkata again a domestic security check and punctual departure to Mumbai.Reached Mumbai at 0030 hrs and boarded a autorickshaw to Bandra Reclaimation and from there a taxi to home sweet home in Prabhadevi with the entire travel from airport to home costing me Rs 500 approximately.Cost of living in Mumbai is atrociously expensive in comparison to the North East states of India.In a span of 13 days i had traveled in buses,auto-rickshaw's , taxi's,ferry boats and airplanes beside's staying in six different accommodations of various types ranging from a classic jungle home-stay to the worst of single room/common toilet hotel's.This is the definition of a Solo unplanned travel adventure and i am happy and wiser for the same.
NOTE :- ALL OPINIONS AND PERSONAL OBSERVATIONS EXPRESSED ARE MY OWN AND THE REST IS INTERNET RESEARCH.
Link to my previous solo adventure travel :- https://soloafricansafar.blogspot.in/
